OUR LOCALITY
> BALLYCONNELL AREA
> CUILCAGH SCENIC DRIVE
> HOW TO FIND US
> MAP OF LAKE & AREA
> PLACES TO VISIT
> MARBLE ARCH CAVES
> FLORENCE COURT HOUSE
> DEVENISH ISLAND MONASTIC SITE
> OUTDOORS & DIRTY (ODD)
> LOCAL MUSEUMS
> EATING OUT & EVENING ENTERTAINMENT
> ANCESTORS
> STANDING STONES
> THE FAMINE
> GENEALOGY

BALLYCONNELL AREA TOP
Ballyconnell is situated in the western region of County Cavan, where the gentle drumlin countryside that Cavan is known for gives way to the mountainous Kingdom of Breifne.

The Woodford River runs through the centre of the town; part of the Woodford Canal which has been restored to reconnect the link between the Erne and Shannon rivers. This is once again the longest navigable stretch of water in Europe; from Ballyshannon in Co. Donegal, into Fermanagh, Cavan, Leitrim, and on through the midlands to Co. Limerick.

Once a quiet, tiny village, its population decimated since Famine times from emigration, it is now the location of the Slieve Russell Hotel and 18 hole championship golf course, various boat charter companies, a wide variety of manufacturing businesses, and some excellent pubs, restaurants and night clubs. The population is growing rapidly as people have discovered what a beautiful part of Ireland this is.

Just outside the town itself, Slieve Rushen and Doon mountains now proudly display numerous wind turbines; testament to Ireland’s enthusiasm to replace fossil fuel with renewable energy. Prospect Bay uses 100% renewable electricity from turbines like these. Far from spoiling the landscape they have themselves become tourist attractions as the access roads to them are maintained and offer spectacular views of Brackley Lake and its crannog (man made island fortress) named Barron’s Island.

Prospect Bay is situated approximately six miles north west of Ballyconnell town and two miles north west of Bawnboy village, at the western end of Brackley Lake, accessed from the N.87 heading towards Swanlinbar, past which the road number becomes the A32. (relevant if you’re travelling to us from the Enniskillen direction!)
It takes only six or seven minutes drive to reach us from Ballyconnell

Bawnboy is a small village located between Ballyconnell and Prospect Bay at the eastern end of Brackley Lake. It has two good pubs, two handy shops which stay open late, a hairdresser and a filling station. It recently built a fantastic children’s playground right beside the pub. Don’t think that was intentional though! It is also the location of an old Workhouse complex, dating back to the Famine.

Near Bawnboy, at the opposite end of Brackley Lake, is Bear Essentials, where you can buy or make your own teddy bear.

Five miles north of Prospect Bay is the village of Swanlinbar and the border with Fermanagh. Swad, as it is known locally was once the location for iron ore smelting, supposedly established by four men by the names of Swift, Sanders, Darling and Barry, hence Swanlinbar!. Swanlinbar has many mineral spa wells which during the 18th Century used to attract hundreds of visitors to ‘take the waters’ before sea bathing became the next big thing.

Many are sulphur spas, and give off a not-so-lovely whiff of bad eggs, but leave the water bottled in the fridge overnight and the smell goes, and the water itself is wonderful. The easiest spa well to visit is in the townland of Uragh.

A ten minute drive past Swanlinbar brings you to the Marble Arch Caves.

CUILCAGH SCENIC DRIVE TOP
1. Cladagh Glen
The glen of the Cladagh River extends upstream from the car park to the Marble Arch and has been designated a nature reserve. Follow the path on the east side of the glen finishing, after only 1 mile, at the Marble Arch Caves visitor centre where refreshments are available in the small cafe.

2. Clyhannagh
The car park at the foot of Cladagh Glen is also the starting point for another, longer walk from the "Cuilcagh Mountain Walks" package which explores the geology and archaeology of the area immediately to the west of the glen. Along this walk you will pass two of the three rivers that sink underground and merge to form the Cladagh - the river which is responsible for excavating the Marble Arch Caves.

3. Hanging Rock
From the Cladagh Bridge car park, drive west towards Blacklion. After 1.5 miles is a small lay-by alongside the spectacular Hanging Rock; a dramatic limestone cliff overlooking Lough Macnean Lower. An information panel explains that the wood at the base of the cliff is also a nature reserve.

A small track leads up to a spring issuing from the rock face. Local folklore tells of an unfortunate salt merchant who met an untimely end when a large boulder fell off the cliff face as he was travelling on the road below. The boulder, the Cloghoge, can still be seen at the side of the road 200m east of the entrance to Gortatole Outdoor Education Centre.

4. Marlbank Viewpoint
Approximately half a mile west from the Hanging Rock a minor road leads off to the left. This junction is marked by a telephone box. Follow this minor road (the Marlbank Scenic Loop) up-hill for less than one mile until the Marlbank Viewpoint is reached. The view over Lough Macnean Lower and the Arney Valley is spectacular and the small, rounded hills or drumlins that fill the valley are obvious. The picnic area here is used as the starting point for two circular walks.

5. Killykeegan
From the viewpoint, drive east along Marlbank Scenic Loop. Views towards the lofty, flat summit of Cuilcagh open out in this sparsely populated area. After three miles the entrance to the Killykeegan Nature Reserve is reached. A car park here gives you the opportunity to stop and follow the small walk around the nature reserve.

An information panel highlights aspects of the flora of the area while information on the geology of the reserve is found in the walks package. See the spectacular limestone pavements here or visit the ruins of an ancient Celtic Farmstead or cashel.

6. Marble Arch Caves
From the nature reserve drive east for another mile before reaching the Marble Arch Showcaves. These truly spectacular caves were excavated by the action of the Cladagh River and the undergtound tour includes a boat-trip along a section of it. The caves are open from March - September and the visitors centre here includes toilets and a cafe together with a small book and gift shop.

7. Cavan Way & The Burren
After leaving Marble Arch continue on the Marlbank Scenic Loop eastwards for two miles until the main Florencecourt - Blacklion road is reached. Turn left at this junction and drive the five miles to Blacklion, and it's close neighbour Belcoo, offer a range of restaurants, pubs and shops. It also lies at the northern end of the Cavan Way, a 26 mile long waymarked trail to Dowra. The northern section of the walk, from Blacklion to Shannon Pot, is featured in the Cuilcagh Mountain Walks package and meanders across a truly spectacular area rich in geological and achaeological features known as the Burren (An Bhoirinn - stony place)

8. Cornagee Viewpoint
From Blacklion drive west for 300m along the main street until a junction with the R206 (signposted to Glangevlin) is reached. Follow the R206 for about half a mile until another junction on the left hand side is reached, signposted to the Cornagee Viewpoint (Corn na Gaoithe: rounded windy hill).

Follow this minor road uphill for 1.5 miles to the viewpoint. The view encompasses Lough Macnean Upper and the mountains of north Leitrim. The broad, u-shaped valley of Glenfarne is very distinctive and in clear weather the mountains of south Donegal may be seen to the north-west with Truskmore, guarding over Sligo town, lying due west.

9. Gowlan
From Cornagee, continue southwards along the minor road until the chapel at Gowlan crossroads is reached. This area is rich in archaeological remains including well preserved cashels in Moneygashel townland. A short circular walk from the Cuilcagh Mountain Walks package explores the landscape, archaeology and rich folklore of this area.

10. Shannon Pot
At Gowlan crossraod turn right and follow the road west for approximately one mile until the main R206 is reached again. At this junction turn left and drive south towards Glangevlin. After only half a mile turn left into the car park and picnic area at Shannon pot.
The Shannon Pot has for many years been accepted as the source of the Shannon, the longest river in Ireland. The water here however is now considered to come from several different sources and an information panel explains more about this.

Shannon Pot is also the site of one of the areas most famous folk-tales. This tells a story of a young girl who was tempted to eat from the forbidden "tree of knowledge" that the magical druids had planted at this site. However, as she bit into the fruit a huge fountain of water sprang up, drowning the young girl and eventually cutting a swathe of water throught the countryside before meeting the sea far to the south. The girls name was Sionnán, or Shannon in English and she gave her name to the river that the flood had left in its place

11. Tullydermot Viewpoint
From Shannon Pot, follow the R206 south to Glangevlin. At the junction here, turn left and follow the R200 towards Swanlinbar. The road climbs and twists its way up and over the Bellavally Gap between Cuilcagh to the north and Benbrack to the south.
After 4-5 miles the Tullydermot viewpoint overlooking Slive Rushen and the lowlands of north Cavan is reached. There is also a good view of the summit of Cuilcagh here and one can clearly see the distinctive stepped profile caused by the different rock types that make up the mountain.

12. Swanlinbar
After leaving Tullydermot viewpoint, continue eastwards on the R200 for half a mile until a road on the left is reached, signposted towards Swanlinbar. Follow this minor road for approximately four miles into the village where shops and pubs can be found. The Irish name for this village gives a clue to its origin - Muileann an Iarainn means "Iron Mill." The English name of Swanlinbar however has a different origin.

In the late 17th Century, four entrepreneurs established a mill here, using iron ore from the Slieve Anierin Mountains, south west of Cuilcagh. The gentlemens's names were Swift, Sanders, Darling and Barry, hence Swanlinbar!

Today Swanlinbar is a quiet village but for over 200 years, it was a thriving, bustling town, with people coming from all over Britain and Europe to drink from the spa (or mineral) wells. These wells contain water which is rich in naturally occuring minerals, such as sulphur, iron and magnesium, and it was beleived that these minerals gave the water healing qualities.

Visitors to the well here included Henry Gratten - the father of the Irish Parliament - and the former Bishop of Kilmore. Although there are 5 or 6 spa wells in the vicinity of Swanlinbar, only 3 of them are easily accessible. The Drumbrochas spa is a sulphur well, and such water is reputed to cure rheumatism. This well is easily found on the left of the road as there is a step to get over the low wall.

The Uragh Spa is rich in magnesium and is believed to cure bad stomachs. This was the site of The Spa Hotel, and some foundations are still evident in the field. The Mullan Spa is another sulphur spa and can be found in the field immediately before the checkpoint, about 12 metres past the gate.

13. Gortalughany & The Ulster Way
From Swanlinbar, follow the R202 north (signposted to Enniskillen). After 1.5 miles turn left into a minor road signposted Gortalughany. This narrow road leads up to a viewpoint overlooking the Swanlinbar valley with Upper Lough Erne visible in the distance.
The car park here is also the starting point for two walks featured in the Cuilcagh Mountain Walks Package. One of the walks is a short, circular route exploring the rocks and landscape of this area. The other walk, along the Ulster Way, is much longer and culminates in the final steep climb to the summit of Cuilcagh at 665m.

14. Florencecourt
After visiting Gortalughany, return to the main road (the A32), turn left and drive north 2.5 miles to the crossroads and turn left towards Florencecourt. The 18th Century house and Gardens are the property of The National Trust and the adjacent Forest Park has several walks.

15. Brookfield
From Florencecourt, continue west and after 1.5 miles the Marlbank Scenic Loop is reached again. The first bend on the Loop is the starting point for a circular walk featured in the Cuilcagh Mountain Walks Package exploring the limestone pavement of the area. The Cuilcagh Scenic Drive itself however is finished by returning to the bridge over the Cladagh River just another mile or so further west along the Florencecourt to Blacklion road.

HOW TO FIND US TOP
From the N3, at Belturbet take 1st exit at roundabout outside Belturbet marked Ballyconnell and N87.

From Ballyconnell follow signs for N87 and Swanlinbar. Pass through Bawnboy village and on as far as Brackley Lake’s Amenity Beach (approx 5 miles). After passing the beach take the first left turn (signposted for Prospect Bay), and keep left at the fork a few yards further on. Prospect Bay is approx 8-900 yards down this lane on the right hand side.

From N4 at Longford, pass through Roosky and Mohill to Ballinamore, taking the left fork for Swanlinbar at the top of Main St. This road meets the N87 at Derrynacrieve Junction (approx 10 miles). Turn right here, then right at small crossroads soon after, signposted for Prospect Bay

From N Ireland, at Enniskillen take Sligo Road as far as The Three Way Inn, taking left fork for A32 signposted for Marble Arch Caves and Swanlinbar. Once past Swanlinbar the road becomes the N87. Stay on, driving straight through Derrynacrieve Junction, taking first right turn at small crossroads, where signposted for Prospect Bay.

PLACES TO VISIT... TOP
MARBLE ARCH CAVES TOP
Marble Arch Caves at Cuilcagh Mountain Park are approximately 15 minutes drive from Prospect Bay. They are one of Europe’s finest show-caves with a fascinating natural underworld of rivers, waterfalls, winding passages and lofty chambers. Lively and informative guides conduct tours past a bewildering variety of cave formations – stalactites glisten above stream-ways and chambers while fragile mineral veils and cascades of creamy calcite coat walls and spread as shimmering terraces across rock strewn floors.
Tours last for 75 minutes and are suitable for people of any age of average fitness. Comfortable walking shoes and a warm sweater are recommended.

Located at Florencecourt Co. Fermanagh the Marble Arch cave complex has good car parking, a souvenir shop, restaurant, exhibition area and an audio visual theatre.

Cuilcagh Mountain Park is managed by Fermanagh District Council with the aim of actively restoring damaged peatland, conserving a significant area of pristine blanket bog and increasing awareness and appreciation of bogland habitats and wildlife. The importance of Marble Arch Caves and Cuilcagh Mountain Park has been recognised on an international scale as they were jointly awarded UNESCO Global Geopark status in 2004, one of 25 such sites around the world. EU Funded.

FLORENCE COURT HOUSE TOP
Florence Court is romantically named after the wife of Sir John Cole who first built a house on the spectacular site in the early 18th century. The present Palladian style house was probably built by his son John, afterwards the 1st Lord Mount Florence.

The wings and Pavilion were added to the mid-18th century block around 1770 by Wm Cole, 1st Earl of Enniskillen and may have been designed by Davis Ducart. Disaster struck Florence Court in 1955 when the main building was virtually gutted by fire.

The rest of the house and the striking plasterwork after the manner of Robert West has been meticulously restored by the National Trust. Family pictures and historic items owned by the 6th Earl of Enniskillen have been returned to Florence Court in accordance with his wishes, and are on display in the house.

Florence Court is well known to gardeners as the home of the Irish Yew, Taxus baccata ' Fastigiata', which is now a feature of gardens throughout the world . The original tree, discovered in about 1760, can still be seen on the fringe of Cottage Wood to the south-east of the house .

DEVENISH ISLAND MONASTIC SITE TOP
This site contains the substantial remains of Lough Erne's most important island monastery. St Molaise founded it in the 6th century on an historic pilgrim route to Croagh Patrick. It later became an Augustine Priory of St Mary. The remains include a Romanesque church and a 12th century round tower, crosses and the Priory Church. Visitors can climb the islands most striking feature, the perfect round tower, which is 30 metres tall.

There is much to be admired in the architecture of the churches with their beautifully carved intricate details. There is also a museum which contains sculpture from the churches.

The Ferry to the Island leaves from Trory point, down a short lane at the junction of the B52 to Kesh and the A32 to Ballinamallard. 1.5 miles out of Enniskillen.

Summer opening hours: (1stApri l - 30thSept)
EHS ferry from Trory operates only in summer season
Ferry starts Good Friday to mid September
Open every day 10am to 6pm

OUTDOORS & DIRTY (ODD) TOP
Out Doors & Dirty is a new (and the county’s first) extreme activity Gamespark located beside Prospect Bay at Brackley Lake.
Offering a unique combination of games, odd caters for groups of six upwards, with packages to suit age or group make-up. Primarily for over 16’s, odd offers:

• ‘Rage’ Mud Buggy grand prix
• ‘Conflict’ woodland laser combat (better than paintball)
• Hovercrafting experience
• Powerturn duo-drive dragsters
• ‘Laser clay’ Clay Pigeon shooting

Groups can book single events, half or full day combinations, or even a ‘Dirty Weekend’!

While larger groups are booked in advance and catered for individually, it is often possible for smaller groups to play, and at short notice, so even if your stay with us is short we can still book you in for some great craic! Overalls are supplied, but it is advised to be wearing old clothes and sensible footwear. Prices from €25 per person.

For up to date info check www.odd.ie

LOCAL MUSEUMS, ETC TOP
Some other places to visit include;

• County Museum in Ballyjamesduff
• Lace Museum in Killnaleck
• The Castle Museum in Enniskillen
• The Old Railway Station Museum in Belturbet
• Lakeland Forum Leisure Centre and children’s adventure playground, Enniskillen

For more suggestions, maps and guides, check;
www.cavantourism.com
www.breifne.ie
www.irelandnorthwest.ie

EATING OUT & EVENING ENTERTAINMENT TOP

Restaurants
Ballyconnell has food to suit all tastes and budgets. There are others but our favourites are;

Polo D
Open Wed – Sat. Smart casual. Booking essential as a local favourite

Anglers Rest
Open every day. No need to book, turn up before 9pm. Biggest steaks on the planet

The Bayleaf
Open every day. Good value chipper and ‘proper dinners’

Setanta
At the Slieve Russell Hotel. Very contemporary décor. Advise booking

Casa Tivoli
A new Italian restaurant open in Ballyconnell - open all week for lunch and dinner. Tel: 049 9527787.

Also must be mentioned within travelling distance;

McNean Bistro
Blacklion features celebrity chef Neven Maguire, so booking essential

Francos
Enniskillen open every day, local favourite so booking essential. Enormous menu, with lots of sea food, and pizzas are freshly made.

Cavan Crystal Hotel
Very contemporary restaurant, imaginative menu.

Pubs
Ballyconnell has some great pubs/nightclubs to suit all ages and musical taste. There are also plenty where the art of conversation thrives!

Rather than recommend one or two we think you should try them all, but maybe not all on the same night…

NB Our local taxis are good value and reliable!

ANCESTORS TOP
STANDING STONES TOP
This entire area is awash with ancient stones; standing, carved, tombs, forts – its quite incredible.

Here are just two examples of what you can find;

Burial Chamber (Dolmen) in Co. Fermanagh
On top of a low hill, commanding fine views, and formerly thought to be a ruined stone circle, this picturesque group of 7 stones (ranging from 75 cms to over 2 metres high) is more likely the remains of a megalithc tomb.

Stone Fort or Dun in Co. Cavan
The largest of 3 stone forts (cashels) in the townland of Moneygashel is nearly 800 metres N of a former schoolhouse, and best approached through a farm 400 metres further on, and up a lane. It has a well-preserved lintelled entrance and unusual external stone stairs. Inside are two other stairways. The wall survives up to 3 metres and encloses an area 25 metres in diameter.
450 metres SW, on a rise, is a smaller ruined cashel with a fine, corbelled free-standing sweathouse just inside the entrance.

For more info see www.megalithic.co.uk and www.irishmegaliths.org.uk

THE FAMINE TOP
From 1845 and over the following six years the potato famine killed over one million people and forced the emigration of another million.

Ireland at the time was owned by English and Anglo-Irish ruling classes. Most were absentee landlords that rarely if ever visited their estates; enormous tracts of land confiscated by Oliver Cromwell long before. It is a fact these landlords lived well off the rents paid by their Irish tenants.

The system of sub-dividing these estates into smaller and smaller holdings while increasing rent annually was unsustainable, leaving the average tenant farmer with less than 10 acres with which to support his family. Improving his own conditions was pointless as any building became the property of the landlord. Cotiers, or labourers often also resided in cabins on the farm, with part of their own potato crop forming rent to the farmer. None enjoyed any security of tenure.

By the mid 1800s cultivated land in Ireland supported 700 people per square mile and the potato had become the staple crop of the poor, since one acre could yield up to 12 tons, and it was possible to stay healthy on potatoes alone. Oats and barley meal were unaffordable luxuries for the Irish.

The famine, when it came, was as a result of a virus brought from North America in the holds of ships, which rotted the tuber. This was the first occasion it happened on a national scale, and with the entire population dependant on one food, starvation was inevitable. It is a fact that Ireland’s British rulers did little or nothing to assist; the unsuccessful rebellions of earlier years having generated retribution and indifference by Britain on an unprecedented level. More and more evictions forced starving people out of their ‘homes’, which were often burned down.

The rural far western portion of Ireland had the highest mortality rate with the worst occurring in County Mayo and County Sligo, which each averaged up to 60,000 deaths per year; followed by Roscommon, Galway, Leitrim, Cavan, and Clare Counties, each averaging up to 50,000 per year.

For the destitute Irish, if death was to be avoided, options were bleak.
Emigration with the false promise of assistance was one, and entering the workhouse was the other.

The Workhouse
The Poor Law Act in 1838 established 130 unions (of church parishes), each with its own workhouse, funded by local taxes.

The family was permanently separated into accommodations for men and women, who were forbidden to leave, and a life dictated by rules, and a bell rung to indicate work, silent meals and sleep from then on.

This route was usually permanent, and represented complete loss of dignity. Death from dysentery, cholera and lice-carried typhus became more likely in the attempt to avoid death from starvation.

The workhouse at Bawnboy was still in use in the 20th Century. The grounds around the austere buildings are littered with unmarked graves.

Emigration
Most early emigration was as a result of eviction or false promises, where families were forced onto what were known as Coffin Ships sailing to Canada. Later passage to America was at the expense of five years’ indentured work on arrival. Many fled to Liverpool and into the English countryside, where soup kitchens were more generous and survival rates higher.

GENEALOGY TOP
There are few places on earth the Irish did not reach from the 1700s and on until the end of the 20th Century. Both Cavan and Leitrim have their own genealogy service for those whose ancestors emigrated. We will be happy to assist any guest seeking local relations, and have been successful on several occasions!

Contact www.cavangenealogy.com
Or www.leitrim-roscommon.com

Local family names include:
McGovern
O’ Reilly
Maguire
Cassidy
Drumm
Brady
Gilheaney
Mc.Goldrick
Mc.Manus
Cullen
Owens
Dolan
Doonan

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